In 1988, Martin Margiela founded his label 'Maison Martin Margiela' and began making waves in the fashion community almost immediately. From the first show in 1988 till his departure in 2008, the designer put out avant-garde looks season after season, with shows that often conveyed messages that went beyond the clothes themselves. Oddities of MMM shows included obscuring models' faces, so as to draw attention to the clothing itself, to the often unconventional choice of venues that brought viewers out of their comfort zones. In Margiela's own words, the style of MMM at the time was “a style of freedom”, with the designer and brand charting their own paths, while still remaining in the realm of high fashion. This uncompromising expression of original ideas and unique twists on classic garments defined the early years of the label.

Contrasted with the Maison Margiela of yesteryear, the Maison Margiela brand of today is merely a husk of its former self, even though it remains profitable. With the namesake designer gone, many of the designs on offer today are merely recycled ideas from Margiela's time there. From the countless, sometimes tasteless tabi reiterations and logo branded t-shirts, the MMM of today seems to lack the soul that made it so acclaimed to start. As demonstrated in Cream Issue 09, no one designer has managed to match Margiela's design capability and ingenuity at MMM since his departure. From interviews with Margiela himself to photos of avant-garde creations made of recycled objects, the designer's pandora box of creativity flows freely in Cream Issue 09, with his uninhibited creativity being on full display.

As seen in the over 600 pages of pictures and interviews with the designer himself, Margiela’s creativity was an unmatched force in developing the brand identity. Even with others such as John Galliano attempting to fill the hole left by Margiela's departure, the spark that the designer originally brought to the house is simply missing, perhaps never to be found again.

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Writer: Isaac L. Davis