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Punk. Fantasy. Couture. Counterculture. Believe it or not, all of these words and more come to mind when people hear the name ‘Undercover’. From its highly acclaimed collections capturing the essence of the times, to collaborations with a wide range of brands including Supreme and Nike, the Japanese cult brand is a pioneer in combining youth and countercultures with high fashion over the course of decades. Its impact on both fashion and culture as a whole is simply incomprehensible, but perhaps we can gain a clearer understanding of it through it’s founder Jun Takahashi.

Born in 1969 in the countryside of Japan, Jun Takahashi radiated rebellious energy from the very beginning, becoming infatuated with English punk band Sex Pistols and punk-esque designer Vivienne Westwood from a young age. This fascination with clothing led him to enroll in Japan’s prestigious Bunka Fashion College, where he would create Undercover together with his friend Hironori Ichinose. The beginnings of Undercover consisted of clothing inspired by the work of Vivienne Westwood, but soon began to find its own voice and soon enough its own cult following. Takahashi, together the Japanese fashion figures Hiroshi Fujiwara and Nigo, created the ‘limited streetwear’ formula before the likes of Supreme ever did, creating a mysterious aura around his brand as a result. This strategy of incorporating high quality clothing with youth and streetwear sensibilities would build up Undercover’s notoriety over the years, eventually taking the spotlight on the world stage from its debut Paris collection at Paris Fashion Week in 2002 and beyond. The rest is history: Undercover has proven itself as a force to be reckoned with, influencing both people in the fashion industry and creatives who dream for greatness. With Undercover’s existence in this world, who is to say that greatness is just a dream?

Undercover

Labyrinth of Undercover

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Walter Van Beirendonck

Mutilate

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Established by Goro Takahashi following a profound spiritual encounter during his initiation into the Lakota tribe in the United States, Goros is a distinguished Japanese brand celebrated for its exquisite, handcrafted jewelry inspired by Native American traditions. Crafted in small batches, the jewelry is exclusively available from a sole storefront in Harajuku, Tokyo. The brand has cultivated a devoted following due to its highly limited and exclusive inventory, accessible only to those willing to endure hours of anticipation for entry and engage in a ceremonial shopping experience. This exclusivity has solidified Goros' legacy as one of Japan's most renowned brands, emphasizing its dedication to craftsmanship, cultural exchange, and a distinctive human-centered retail model. This approach has garnered worldwide attention, inspiring pilgrimages from enthusiasts across the globe.

Goros

Legend of Harajuku Goros, Volume 2

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Gucci is an Italian luxury fashion house founded in Florence by Guccio Gucci in 1921, which evolved into a global brand over the course of the 20th century. The family was ousted from the brand in 1993, following Dawn Mello’s appointment as vice president and chief designer. Tom Ford was appointed to lead women’s ready-to-wear, and then appointed as creative director in 1994. Ford’s “porno chic” brought the brand to the cultural fore, and after a business struggle between Gucci CEO Domenico de Sole, LVMH investors, and Francois Pinault, the brand was acquired by Pinault as the first piece of Gucci Group, which would later be rebranded as Kering. Ford and de Sole left the company in 2004, where succeeded by Frida Giannini. 

Prior to the Fall/Winter 2015 season, Gucci appointed Allesandro Michele, Giannini’s former deputy and head accessories designer, as its new creative director, who launched a renaissance of the brand during which sales soared. Michele’s Gucci was androgynous, maximalist, and romantic, and the strong brand image restored the perception of a brand that had become monotonous under its previous creative director. Michele left in November of 2022, and was replaced by Sabato de Sarno, who pared down the brand’s image to one of more classic luxury. De Sarno left in February 2025, and was replaced by Demna, who serves as the creative director of the brand today.

Gucci

Gucci A/W00 Menswear Lookbook

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Kapital, a cult Japanese fashion brand founded in 1985 in Kojima, Japan, stands out for its authenticity and individuality, with Kiro Hirata leading the creative direction. Known for unique themes like Boro denim and Century denim, Kapital's annual lookbooks reflect its philosophy, showcasing experimental garments, challenging proportions, and distinctive fabric choices. The brand explores diverse cultures and historical periods, with each catalog offering a unique visual and storytelling experience. Despite its growing popularity, Kapital maintains a DIY approach to catalog creation, emphasizing raw, unproduced aesthetics. The text delves into the complex topic of cultural appropriation, questioning the brand's portrayal of various cultures while acknowledging the difficulty of making clear distinctions. In recent years, Kapital has shifted towards a more encompassing approach, incorporating global sources into its styling, all while maintaining a commitment to eccentricity. The brand's lasting cultural impact is acknowledged, prompting appreciation for its unique visual language and influence on the fashion industry.

Kapital

Fukkin Kountry Lookbook

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Issey Miyake was revered as a mystic figure with a profound understanding of humanity. Born in Hiroshima in 1938, witnessing the city's destruction by a nuclear bomb shaped his existential perspective. Miyake's career began in Paris, influenced by the May 1968 protests, and later, he established the Miyake Design Studio (MDS) in 1970. His design philosophy focused on simplicity and pragmatism, creating garments that made life easier. Collaborations with artists like Irving Penn and a commitment to sustainability marked his influential career. Miyake's contributions extended beyond fashion, impacting Japan's creative scene, and his ethos of moving forward and fostering curiosity transcends art and clothing. After relinquishing design control in 1999, he focused on innovative textiles until his passing. Miyake's legacy is defined by a relentless pursuit of progress and curiosity.

Issey Miyake

Making Things

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As a graduate of the LUCA School of Arts, Raf Simons, a Belgian fashion designer, has been a trailblazer for contemporary fashion and luxury streetwear. Raf began researching menswear on his own and began his namesake brand, Raf Simons, in 1995. His early designs were a direct representation of his obsession with youth culture, rebellion, European punk music, and David Bowie. Raf’s work in the 90s and early 2000s established himself as a borderline cult-leader in fashion, as the audience always paid attention when something new came from the designer and his brand. Influenced heavily by the Antwerp 6+, Raf was able to curate and pave his own niche road in the fashion industry. He never deviated from his reference foundational pillars of youth culture, rebellion, music, and films. Everything was intentional and everything seemed effortless. That was the ethos that Raf created & upheld for decades of fashion and creative expression.

Raf Simons has also been a pioneer of collaborations and bridging entities on opposite sides of the cultural and artistic spectrum. From household names like Fred Perry, Brain Calvin, Adidas, Sterling Ruby, and the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation, Raf has always believed in the concept of taking two and making one. The result is an extensive portfolio of creative collections that will withstand the test of time and saturation. Along with his namesake brand, Raf Simons has also gotten several nods and co-signs from major fashion houses. In 2005, he was appointed to the creative director role at Jil Sander, establishing his first opportunity to create and showcase womenswear. After 7 years at Jil Sander, Raf continued his womenswear journey at Dior and dabbled with Haute-Couture in 2012. Raf’s time at Dior propelled his ethos as one of the titans of fashion design, as his minimalist tailoring complimented the incorporation of genuine emotion via artistic expressions. His three and a half tenure at Dior came to an end via resignation and Raf took his talents to Calvin Klein as their Chief Creative Officer. This was Raf’s first attempt at testing his American influence, as he began showing in New York City. Though his time at Calvin Klein was his shortest creative appointment, Raf was able to continue his journey of effortless intention and establish himself as one of the Godfathers of fashion design. In 2020, Raf joined Miuccia Prada’s Prada as a co-creative director and began showing in Milan in 2021. Not only was this appointment a full-circle moment for Raf, it was a moment of closure for fashion. Raf, who spent his entire fashion career poking at the status quo, continues to push the design limits with his forever young rebellious spirit. That is the true definition of a timeless legacy.

Raf Simons

The Fourth Sex

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FARMY Lookbook

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Yohji Yamamoto was born in Tokyo and grew up working with his mother for her dress tailoring business. At first he earned a degree in Law, but after graduating it was his mom’s tailoring work that led him to study fashion design at the Bunka Fashion College, eventually graduating in 1969. After discovering fashion from his mother at a young age, Yamamoto has now been revered as a master tailor known for his experimental interpretation of the Japanese aesthetic. The first Yohji runway shows were held in Tokyo in the late 70’s and he eventually had Paris and New York debuts during the early 80’s.

These first fashion week shows drew in large crowds and Yamamoto began to gain traction in the press. By the early 90’s Yamamoto had developed a dark avant-garde lifestyle that was extremely appealing to many; Long draped dresses, almost sculptural jackets, and large hats are all staple pieces to both his mens and womenswear lines. Yamamoto does not design his clothing based on any trends in fashion, he simply uses his own inspiration and outlook to make his ideas come to life. Alongside both Yohji Yamamoto Mens and Womens collections and sub-label 'Y’s', 'Y-3' was created in 2003 acting as an experimental sportswear line. Yohji Yamamoto is the godfather of Japanese fashion in a sense, paving his own lane, doing what he does best, and not veering off track, which is why he is such an emblematic fashion designer.

Yohji Yamamoto

My Dear Bomb

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Comme Des Garçons in french simply means 'like boys', with the brand of the same phrase being created by the Japanese mastermind Rei Kawakubo. She first founded the label in 1969 in Tokyo and it quickly began to gain popularity in the 70’s. CDG released its first menswear line in 1978 with their first ever runway show in Paris a few years later in 1981. The brand was often associated with a thrashed-punk style and many of her early collections were well received during the 80’s and 90’s despite her uncommon creative style. From early on, CDG had many different sub-labels under their umbrella such as CDG Homme Plus and CDG Noir, but by the early 2000’s designers like Junya Watanabe and Fumitu Ganryu had their own lines under the CDG label as well. Each of these lines has its own purpose, while other lines were specific to wallets, fragrances, jewelry, and swimwear.

With the creation of Dover Street Market in 2004, the CDG Play line gained popularity quickly and offered casual streetwear catering to a younger audience in a more accessible price range. The Play line is one of the most recognizable lines from CDG as most of the T-shirts and hoodies are usually decorated with their unsophisticated yet classic heart with eyes logo originally created by Filip Pagowski. The success of CDG eventually led to their first collaboration with the footwear giant Converse in 2009 which has continued since with them releasing many new editions of the shoes. In more recent years, Comme Des Garçons has done collaborations with streetwear and designer brands like Supreme, Louis Vuitton, and Nike, the company has become one of the most successful 'anti-fashion houses' in the industry.

Comme des Garcons

SIX 1/4

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Katsuhiro Otomo for Comme des Garcons DM 18

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Guru of the Fashion World

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AW1995 Lookbook

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SIX Number 6

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Raf Simons Redux

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Yohji Yamamoto AW98 Lookbook

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Takarajima is a renowned Japanese magazine known for its diverse content, spanning topics like entertainment, culture, lifestyle, and current affairs. With a focus on captivating visuals and insightful articles, it offers readers a unique blend of entertainment and informative storytelling, making it a beloved publication in Japan for decades.

Takarajima

Last Orgy 2, Issue 17 with Translation

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Last Orgy 2, Issue 16 with Translation

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Legend of Harajuku Goros, Volume 1

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Issey Miyake Photographs by Irving Penn

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25th Anniversary Under Cover Special Edition, Quotation Magazine

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Started in 1997 by designer Takahiro Miyashita, Number (N)ine has always been a hit in Japan, with a devoted fan base remaining to this day. Due to the rise of archive fashion in recent years, Number (N)ine has quickly garnered attention in the West. With piqued interest, more information has become available to us, with runway footage, editorial scans, and interviews to name a few, with more being uncovered by the day.

Although the brand started in 1997, the first two years consisted of establishing its standards and creating basic items. It started to get more creative two years later, with a total of 21 unique seasons spanning from 1999 to 2009. Fashion shows were conducted in Japan from 2000-2003, and shows in Paris were from 2004-2009. The brand name stems from the Beatles song 'Revolution 9,' a cacophony of musical elements with monotonous vocals repeating the words “number nine,” over and over. Frequent references to Kurt Cobain, The Beatles, and various other musical artists allow this brand to become instantly appealing to any music lover. Yet, the brand is also accessible to anyone due to its streetwear aesthetic at first glance; Americana and grunge themes are ubiquitous, and always find their way into the collections. The more you look into the brand however, the more you appreciate the subtle details and references prevalent everywhere. A melancholy tinge paints over the brand, with a somber atmosphere for some of the shows, and clothing being affixed with references to pain and sorrow. This comes as no surprise, with Mr. Miyashita being no stranger to reflecting on his mental hardships. He even thanked his doctors on the back of the staff tee shirt for SSAW2003. Number (N)ine becomes the literal embodiment of the phrase “wearing your heart on your sleeve.”

It is no surprise that Number (N)ine remains relevant to this day, most likely because of Mr. Miyashita’s seamless blending of musical elements and meticulously crafted garments. Through his work, we can begin to appreciate the connection between these two different mediums of art, giving rise to a truly unique experience which separates him from the rest. Although Number (N)ine under Takahiro Miyashita has been defunct since February 20th, 2010 (Kurt Cobain’s birthday), his legacy now continues through his current brand TAKAHIROMIYASHITATheSoloist.

Number (N)ine

SMART Magazine Special

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Last Orgy 2, Issue 23 with Translation

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In 1988, Martin Margiela founded his label 'Maison Martin Margiela' and began making waves in the fashion community almost immediately. From the first show in 1988 till his departure in 2008, the designer put out avant-garde looks season after season, with shows that often conveyed messages that went beyond the clothes themselves. Oddities of MMM shows included obscuring models' faces, so as to draw attention to the clothing itself, to the often unconventional choice of venues that brought viewers out of their comfort zones. In Margiela's own words, the style of MMM at the time was “a style of freedom”, with the designer and brand charting their own paths, while still remaining in the realm of high fashion. This uncompromising expression of original ideas and unique twists on classic garments defined the early years of the label.

Maison Martin Margiela

Street Special Edition

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ss2003 Scab Runway Looks

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Veronique Branquinho, a designer who emerged the same time and from the same  place as many of fashion's historic figures, is not one who should be overlooked when analyzing late 90s/early 2000's fashion. Veronique Branquinho not only provided runways with tasteful and alluring classic designs, she proved herself as a designer who was also capable of designing complete conceptual collections that conveyed a captivating story to an audience. 

Veronique Branquinho

Veronique Branquinho A/W 2004 Menswear

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Last Orgy 2, Issue 10 with Translation

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Chrome Hearts traces its roots to a Hollywood carpenter, Richard Stark, who, after a serendipitous movie costume design opportunity, co-founded the brand in a Los Angeles garage. Initially renowned for high-quality leather goods adorned with sterling-silver motifs, Chrome Hearts gained prominence among rock and punk bands, ultimately earning Richard Stark the CFDA Accessory Designer of the Year award in 1992. The brand's journey, marked by a split among founders in 1994, continued with Laurie Lynn joining and steering it towards global and digital success. Chrome Hearts maintained an aura of exclusivity, opening flagship stores worldwide but avoiding direct online sales. Its recent mainstream surge, fueled by hip-hop endorsements, led to adaptations, embracing e-commerce and online resale. Despite memes and widespread logo saturation, Chrome Hearts, still owned by the Starks, stands resilient in its commitment to timeless designs, heritage, and non-conformity in the ever-evolving fashion landscape.

Chrome Hearts

Chrome Hearts Richard Stark Photograph

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Katsuhiro Otomo for Comme des Garcons DM 24

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TGRAPHICS

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Katsuhiro Otomo for Comme des Garcons DM 25

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Last Orgy 2, Issue 11 with Translation

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Truth of Number (N)ine

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A/W 2002 'Virginia Creeper' Catalog

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Raf Simons AW97 Lookbook

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Exchange Booklet

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Guerillazine: No.6 Ideas for Corporate Salvation

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Cream Issue 09

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20 The Exhibition

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Under the Cover

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East Meets West

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Underman Photo Book

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Within the midst of 1970's Great Britain emerged a brand that shifted our perception of fashion forever: Seditionaries. Founded by Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren, Seditionaries masterfully created shock value through its clothing and subverted mainstream values through its products and branding, from shirts adorning the Nazi Swastika to graphic depictions of the Cambridge Rapist and more. The brand catapulted into further notoriety through the Tokyo Sex Pistols, where each member wore its clothing throughout their performances on the world stage. The true impact of Seditionaries stretches far and wide, influencing multiple facets of both mainstream cultures and subcultures in the past, present, and future. 

Seditionaries

Jun Takahashi and Hiroshi Fujiwara Seditionaries Collection Book

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SIX Number 4

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Yohji Yamamoto Memoires

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SIX Number 3

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Last Orgy 2, Issue 12 with Translation

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SIX Number 5

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Undercover behind the scenes for So-En

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Universe of Fashion: Comme des Garcons

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Visionaire 20: Comme des Garcons

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Last Orgy 2, Special Edition with Translation

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Last Orgy 2, Issue 13 with Translation

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Hedi Slimane’s era at Dior Homme from 2000 to 2007 remains a defining chapter in the history of menswear, where the designer's vision crystallized into a series of iconic collections that reshaped the male silhouette. Slimane's razor-sharp tailoring, with its narrow cuts and slender fits, drew heavily from the raw energy of rock and roll and punk subcultures, imbuing Dior Homme with a rebellious spirit tempered by meticulous craftsmanship. The collections often embraced a monochromatic palette, where deep blacks dominated, allowing the textural interplay of leather jackets, skinny ties, and fitted blazers to speak volumes. Models appeared as if sculpted, their bodies encased in garments that seemed both armor-like and second skin, echoing a modern-day elegance that was both stark and sophisticated. Slimane's influence extended far beyond the runway, with his slim silhouette becoming a global phenomenon, the very essence of a new masculinity that was as refined as it was daring. Today, his pieces from this era, particularly the razor-sharp suits and signature leather jackets, are coveted relics—testaments to a moment in fashion that continues to resonate.

Dior Homme

Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane for HUGE Magazine

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Cream Spring Edition Issue 04

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Last Orgy 2, Issue 14 with Translation

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Katsuhiro Otomo for Comme des Garcons DM 1

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20471120 is a Japanese fashion brand known for its avant-garde and futuristic designs. Founded by designer Isao Nakagawa in the early 1990s, the brand's name represents a future date, reflecting its commitment to innovation and forward-thinking fashion. The brand is renowned for its experimental approach, often incorporating unconventional materials and bold, eclectic styles that challenge traditional norms. 20471120 has garnered a cult following for its unique and boundary-pushing aesthetic, making a significant impact on the global fashion scene.

20471120

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Aloha Brigade Lookbook

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Rei Kawakubo and Comme des Garcons

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Katsuhiro Otomo for Comme des Garcons DM 14

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Last Orgy 2, Issue 15 with Translation

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Katsuhiro Otomo for Comme des Garcons DM 17

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Katsuhiro Otomo for Comme des Garcons DM 13

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Katsuhiro Otomo for Comme des Garcons DM 5

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“T” Lookbook

Seth Sherwood

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Offbrand Library

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A/W 2000 - 2001 menswear was a more restrained collection from Ford. This season was an exploration of moto wear blended with formal eveningwear; models wore outwear in exotic furs, slim cut slacks that were tight around the crotch, and high necked jackets and coats layered over skin tight turtlenecks. Leather moto pants are a key motif of the season, appearing alongside quilted leathers, fur outwear, and constructed in wool as part of a suiting set.

2000_FW_Gucci_Menswear_Lookbook.pdf

Gucci | Fashion Scans

FASHION SCANS: GUCCI